Buying the Right Dressmaking Patterns and How to Use them correctly

Learning how to buy and use dressmaking patterns in sewing is absolutely essential to creating beautiful dresses. It takes more than just an eye for the right fabrics and colors- without proper technique and careful attention to detail you’re bound to make costly and avoidable errors. Picking out the perfect patterns and using them effectively takes practice and experience to master, but learning the basics and best practices can help beginners make more appealing dresses with ease. The instructions included with patterns make them great tools for sewing novices to make quality dresses, but they can be confusing for someone who doesn’t know the basics of patterns.

What are Dressmaking Patterns?

A dressmaking pattern is essentially a template for you to follow to make the right cuts and sew in the right places. They are especially useful for beginners, but dressmakers of any skill level can benefit from them and avoid mistakes. Patterns eliminate much of the guesswork when it comes to dimensions and measurements, making the process of sewing less frustrating and more creative.

Dressmaking patterns themselves are usually sheets of tissue paper or other thin material- some of them are reusable ‘master patterns’. They are marked with lines, dots, and other symbols to help you line them up correctly with the fabric and determine where to sew. They usually come with a set of instructions to help you decipher what the markings on the pattern mean, but they still assume a certain level of sewing experience and knowledge despite their reputation as a ‘shortcut’. You’ll want to follow the instructions exactly as they are laid out, once you gain experience with patterns you can implement your own creative flourishes.

Choosing the Right Patterns

Before the sewing begins, all of your fabrics and patterns need to be in place with an exact game plan on how to approach them. Preparedness is everything if you intend on creating a flawless end product.

First, assess the base fabric of your dress and the shape that it has. Notice the curves and contours, how it will look in three dimensions. Choosing the right dressmaking pattern relies on your knowledge of the foundation material- you must visualize the pattern on the base and know exactly what works and what doesn’t- much like a sculptor must study a crude block of stone before cutting into it and revealing it’s inner beauty, you must get to know your materials and their shapes intimately before being able to confidently work with them.

Get all the dimensions for the body you intend the dress to fit on- height, chest/bust, hip, and waist. Write them down and refer to them when shopping around for patterns. Fabric should also be a factor, different types of designs and textures require special handling when it comes to sewing them together. For example, one-way designs (meaning designs that must always go in the same direction, like animals walking across the fabric) require that you cut out the pattern pieces the same way- if you cut one out in the opposite direction you will get upside down patterning on the dress. Keep things like this in mind when it comes to the design aspect of your fabric and patterns- always have a firm visualization of the finished dress before making any major decisions about it.

Using Dressmaking Patterns Correctly

When you first start looking at a new pattern it’s easy to get intimidated by all the arcane-looking symbols and instructions. There’s no need to panic, let’s take a look at a typical dressmaking pattern piece-by-piece and you’ll start feeling comfortable dissecting and sewing with these patterns in no time.

The first thing you’ll notice are the various styles on the front of the packaging or envelope, these are known as ‘views’ in sewing terminology and they represent ways you can use the pattern to change certain style options. This may mean variations in sleeve length, dress style, and certain decorative properties. These styles vary widely depending on which pattern you get, so pick the one that’s best for your current project.

Now flip the packaging or envelope over to reveal the information printed on the backside. Here you’ll most likely find more detailed information about the different views and how much fabric you’ll need to buy for each. Always consider the type of fabric you are using when looking at these numbers, for example if you are using a fabric with nap (velour, velvet, etc.) you’ll need to compensate for that with a little more width.

Consult the key and glossary before beginning, they will tell you what all the markings and lines mean on the pattern itself that tell you where to sew and cut. Once you have a good idea of how to handle the pattern and what it’s telling you to do, take a look at the included pattern layout sheet. This will show you exactly how to lay out the pattern onto a specified yardage of fabric depending on your chosen view.

Once you have your bearings, take out the instructions and follow them as best you can. They are usually written with enough clarity for beginners to follow without much trouble, but mistakes and confusion can arise. Take it one step at a time, don’t get ahead of yourself and combine several steps into a few motions. Staple the instructions and key together in front of you and consult them before making any actions. With experience, using dressmaking patterns will become second nature and you will be creating beautiful dresses with ease and confidence.